Garlic Planting 101: Grow Your Best Bulbs Ever

Plant garlic in fall, harvest in summer, and you’ll never buy supermarket garlic again. Homegrown garlic produces bigger bulbs, more intense flavor, and varieties you can’t find in stores—but only if you plant at the right time with proper technique. Miss October’s narrow window, and you’ll get small bulbs or no bulbs at all.

This complete garlic planting guide covers everything from choosing varieties to harvest timing for the biggest, most flavorful bulbs you’ve ever grown.

Why Plant Garlic in Fall

Garlic needs a cold period (vernalization) to form bulbs. Plant in fall, and cloves develop roots through late fall and winter, then explode with growth in spring.

Fall planting timeline:

• October-November: Plant cloves
• November-March: Roots develop, no top growth
• April-May: Rapid leaf and bulb growth
• June-July: Harvest

Spring planting doesn’t work: Cloves planted in spring don’t experience cold period, so they produce single-clove bulbs (basically what you planted) or fail to bulb entirely.

Optimal planting window:

• Zones 3-4: Late September to mid-October
• Zones 5-6: Mid-October to early November
• Zones 7-8: Late October to mid-November
• Zones 9-10: Late November to December

Rule of thumb: Plant 4-6 weeks before ground freezes hard.

Hardneck vs Softneck Garlic

Hardneck Garlic (Allium sativum ophioscorodon)

Characteristics:

• Produces flower stalk (scape) in late spring
• 4-12 large cloves per bulb arranged around central stalk
• Superior flavor, more complex
• Stores 3-6 months
• Cold-hardy (zones 3-7)

Best varieties:

• ‘Music’: Large bulbs, strong flavor, very cold-hardy
• ‘German Extra Hardy’: Reliable, cold-tolerant
• ‘Chesnok Red’: Beautiful purple stripes, rich flavor
• ‘Spanish Roja’: Classic hardneck, heat in flavor

Best for: Cold climates, fresh eating, growers who want scapes

Softneck Garlic (Allium sativum sativum)

Characteristics:

• No flower stalk
• 12-20 smaller cloves per bulb in multiple layers
• Milder flavor
• Stores 6-12 months
• Less cold-hardy (zones 5-9)
• Braids well (soft neck)

Best varieties:

• ‘California Early’: Early harvest, productive
• ‘Inchelium Red’: Large bulbs for softneck, mild
• ‘Silver Rose’: Strong for softneck, stores well
• ‘Italian Loiacono’: Heirloom, excellent flavor

Best for: Warm climates, long storage, braiding, mild flavor preference

Elephant Garlic (Allium ampeloprasum)

Actually a leek, not true garlic, but sold as garlic.

Characteristics:

• Huge cloves (1-2 oz each)
• Very mild, almost sweet flavor
• 4-6 cloves per bulb
• Easy to peel

Best for: People who dislike strong garlic, roasting whole

Planting: Same as regular garlic

Where to Source Garlic

Don’t use supermarket garlic:

• Often treated with sprout inhibitors
• Varieties chosen for appearance/shipping, not flavor or garden performance
• May carry diseases

Best sources:

Local farmers markets (best option):

• Varieties proven in your climate
• Disease-free
• Support local growers
• Often get growing advice

Online specialty garlic suppliers:

• Keene Organics
• Filaree Garlic Farm
• Territorial Seed Company
• Johnny’s Selected Seeds
• Hood River Garlic

Garden centers (October):

• Limited variety selection
• Higher prices
• Convenient, immediate availability

Order early: Best varieties sell out by September. Order August-September for October delivery.

How Much Garlic to Plant

Estimate:

• Light user (fresh cooking): 1-2 lbs seed garlic (20-40 cloves) = 20-40 bulbs
• Moderate user (regular cooking): 3-5 lbs seed garlic (60-100 cloves)
• Heavy user (cooking + preserving): 5-10 lbs seed garlic

Seed garlic cost: $12-20 per pound (depending on variety)

Yield: Each clove produces one bulb. Bulbs range from 1-3 oz (softneck) to 2-6 oz (hardneck).

Site Selection and Soil Prep

Light Requirements

Full sun essential: 6-8+ hours daily. Garlic in shade produces small bulbs.

Soil Requirements

Well-drained is critical: Garlic bulbs rot in soggy soil over winter. If your bed ponds after rain, build raised beds or choose a different location.

Ideal soil:

• Loose, friable texture (not compacted)
• pH 6.0-7.0
• High organic matter (3-5%)
• Fertile (garlic is a heavy feeder)

Soil Preparation (Do This 2-4 Weeks Before Planting)

1. Remove weeds and previous crops

2. Add amendments:

• 2-3 inches of finished compost
• 1/2 cup per 10 feet of balanced organic fertilizer (5-5-5) or bone meal
• If soil test shows low phosphorus or potassium, add as recommended

3. Work in amendments:

• Use broadfork to loosen soil to 12 inches deep (don’t turn/till if possible)
• Or lightly till amendments into top 6-8 inches

4. Rake smooth and let settle for 2 weeks

Why prepare early: Soil settles, organic matter begins breaking down, you’re ready to plant on schedule.

Planting Garlic Step-by-Step

1. Separate Cloves (Day of Planting)

Timing: Separate cloves right before planting, not days in advance. Exposed cloves dry out.

How:

1. Gently break apart bulb into individual cloves
2. Keep papery wrapper on each clove (protects from rot)
3. Discard any damaged, soft, or very small cloves

Which cloves to plant:

• ✅ Large, firm cloves (produce largest bulbs)
• ✅ Medium cloves (produce good-sized bulbs)
• ❌ Small cloves (produce small bulbs—save for cooking)

Pro tip: Each clove’s size determines next year’s bulb size. Plant only the biggest cloves for maximum yields.

2. Planting Spacing and Depth

Spacing:

• Cloves: 4-6 inches apart in rows
• Rows: 8-12 inches apart

Closer spacing (4”) = more bulbs, slightly smaller size Wider spacing (6”) = fewer bulbs, larger size

Depth: 2-3 inches deep (measured from top of clove to soil surface)

Too shallow: Frost heaves cloves out of soil Too deep: Delayed emergence, wasted energy pushing through soil

3. Planting Technique

Method 1: Dibber or planting tool (fastest)

1. Create holes 2-3 inches deep with dibber or thick dowel
2. Drop one clove in each hole, pointed end up, flat end down
3. Cover with soil and firm gently
4. Water thoroughly

Method 2: Furrow (good for large plantings)

1. Use hoe to create furrow 2-3 inches deep
2. Place cloves 4-6 inches apart, pointed end up
3. Cover with soil, firm gently
4. Water thoroughly

Critical: Pointed end must face up (growth tip). Flat end down (root end). Upside-down cloves struggle to emerge.

4. Mulch Heavily (After Planting)

Why mulch:

• Moderates soil temperature through freeze-thaw cycles
• Suppresses winter weeds
• Retains soil moisture
• Prevents frost heaving
• Adds organic matter as it breaks down

Best mulches:

• Straw (weed-free only)
• Shredded leaves
• Aged wood chips (not fresh—they tie up nitrogen)

How much: 4-6 inches immediately after planting

Don’t skip this step: Unmulched garlic often heaves out of soil during freeze-thaw cycles and produces smaller bulbs.

5. Water

At planting: Water deeply to settle soil and initiate root growth

Through fall: Water weekly if no rain (garlic needs moisture to root before freeze)

Winter: No watering needed (dormant)

Spring: Resume watering if weather is dry (1 inch per week)

Fall and Winter Care

After Planting Through Freeze-Up

Monitor mulch: Wind can blow straw away. Add more if needed.

Watch for sprouting: Green tips may emerge in late fall (normal). They’ll survive winter.

No fertilizing: Wait until spring.

Weed control: Mulch should suppress most weeds. Hand-pull any that emerge.

Winter (Dormant Period)

Leave mulch in place: Protects from temperature swings

Nothing to do: Garlic is dormant, developing roots underground

Check after hard freezes: If cloves have heaved out of soil, replant and add more mulch

Spring and Summer Care

Early Spring (March-April)

Remove excess mulch: Pull back to 2-3 inches as temperatures warm. Too much mulch slows soil warming and delays growth.

Fertilize (first application):

• Apply nitrogen-rich fertilizer when growth begins
• Blood meal, feather meal, or fish emulsion (organic)
• Or balanced synthetic (20-10-10)
• Water in thoroughly

Weed vigilantly: Garlic doesn’t compete well with weeds. Keep beds clean.

Water if dry: 1 inch per week (rain + irrigation)

Late Spring (May-Early June)

Fertilize (second application):

• 3-4 weeks after first application
• Same fertilizer type
• This is the bulb-building period—consistent moisture and nutrition are critical

Remove scapes (hardneck only):

• Scapes (curly flower stalks) appear late May/early June
• Cut or snap off when they’ve made one full curl
• Removing scapes directs energy to bulb, increasing size by 20-30%
• Bonus: Scapes are delicious (pesto, stir-fries, grilling)

Water consistently: Garlic bulbing requires consistent moisture. Don’t let soil dry out.

Early Summer (June)

Stop watering 2 weeks before harvest:

• Dry conditions cure bulbs in ground
• Reduces storage rot
• Check forecast—don’t water if rain is coming

Stop fertilizing: No fertilizer after early June

Watch for harvest signs:

• Lower 3-4 leaves turn brown
• Upper 5-6 leaves still green
• Usually late June to mid-July depending on variety and climate

Harvest and Curing

When to Harvest

Timing is critical:

• Too early: Small bulbs, cloves not fully formed
• Too late: Bulbs split open, don’t store well

Visual cues:

• 50-75% of leaves brown
• Top 25-50% still green
• Usually 8-9 months after planting

Test harvest: Dig one bulb carefully. Wrappers should be intact and bulb fully formed.

Variety differences:

• Early varieties: Late June to early July
• Main season: Mid to late July
• Late varieties: Late July to early August

How to Harvest

1. Stop watering 1-2 weeks before harvest: Dry soil is easier to dig, bulbs cure better

2. Loosen soil around bulbs:

• Use garden fork 4-6 inches from plants
• Gently pry up, don’t puncture bulbs

3. Lift bulbs with tops attached:

• Pull gently by stem base
• Brush off excess soil (don’t wash)
• Handle gently—bruised bulbs don’t store

4. Cure immediately: Don’t leave in sun (sunburn damages bulbs)

Curing for Storage

Why cure: Drying skins, sealing in moisture, developing storage capability

Method:

1. Hang bulbs (tops attached) in bundles of 6-8 in shaded, well-ventilated area

   • OR - Lay in single layer on screens/racks (tops can be cut to 6 inches)

2. Location: Shaded, dry, good air flow

   • Garage with fan
   • Covered porch
   • Shed with open windows
   • NOT in direct sun or damp basement

3. Duration: 2-4 weeks

4. Curing complete when:

   • Outer skins are papery and dry
   • Roots are dry and brittle
   • Necks are fully dry (squeeze—should feel firm, not soft)

Cleaning and Storing

After curing:

1. Trim roots to 1/4 inch
2. Trim stems to 1-2 inches (or leave long for braiding)
3. Brush off loose outer layers
4. Don’t wash (introduces moisture = rot)

Storage conditions:

• Cool (60-65°F ideal, 32-50°F OK)
• Dry (60-70% humidity)
• Dark
• Good air circulation

Storage methods:

• Mesh bags hung in pantry
• Braided (softneck varieties)
• Wire baskets
• Cardboard boxes with ventilation holes

Don’t store in:

• ❌ Plastic bags (traps moisture, causes rot)
• ❌ Refrigerator (triggers sprouting)
• ❌ Damp basements

Storage life:

• Hardneck: 3-6 months
• Softneck: 6-12 months
• Use hardneck first, softneck later

Saving Seed Garlic for Next Year

Best strategy: Save your largest bulbs from harvest for replanting in fall.

Benefits:

• Free—no need to buy seed garlic
• Adapted to your specific climate and soil
• Bulbs get larger each year as they adapt

How to save:

1. At harvest, set aside 10-20% of largest, most perfect bulbs
2. Cure and store exactly like eating garlic
3. Plant in October as described above

Don’t: Save small or diseased bulbs—you’ll perpetuate problems

Common Problems and Solutions

Q: Garlic didn’t come up in spring.

Causes:

• Planted too late (didn’t root before freeze)
• Rot from poor drainage or too much moisture
• Voles or mice ate cloves (check for tunnels)
• Planted upside down (check for rotting cloves with shoots pointing down)

Q: Bulbs are small.

Causes:

• Planted small cloves
• Insufficient fertilizer or water
• Planted too close together
• Harvested too early
• Didn’t remove scapes (hardneck)

Q: Bulbs split open.

Cause: Harvested too late Solution: Harvest earlier next year when 50% of leaves are brown

Q: Cloves are sprouting in storage.

Causes:

• Stored too cold (refrigerator)
• Stored too warm in fall (triggers spring growth)
• Not cured properly Solution: Use sprouted cloves for cooking soon, replant if fall season

Q: Bulbs rotting in storage.

Causes:

• Damaged during harvest or handling
• Not cured completely
• Stored in humid conditions Solution: Check stored garlic monthly, remove any soft bulbs immediately

Crop Rotation and Disease Prevention

Don’t plant garlic (or any alliums) in same bed more than 2-3 years consecutively

Reasons:

• Soil-borne diseases build up (white rot, fusarium)
• Depletes specific nutrients
• Reduces yields over time

Rotate to:

• Legumes (beans, peas)—add nitrogen
• Brassicas (cabbage family)—different nutrient needs
• Squash family

Wait 3-4 years before planting alliums in that bed again

Conclusion

Plant garlic in fall between October and November, and you’ll harvest huge, flavorful bulbs next summer. The process is simple: prepare rich, well-drained soil, plant pointed-end-up cloves 2-3 inches deep, mulch heavily, and wait. Spring care is minimal, and harvest timing is the only tricky part.

Once you taste homegrown garlic, you’ll never go back to supermarket bulbs. Better flavor, bigger bulbs, and varieties you can’t buy anywhere—all for less than $1 per bulb.

Ready to plan your vegetable garden? Use Gardenly AI to design your garlic beds, schedule planting and harvest dates, and track crop rotation. Get your free garden plan → 

Related Articles

• October Garden Checklist: 15 Tasks to Do Before First Frost
• Fall Veggies to Plant in August
• Test Your Soil Now and Skip Spring Scramble

---

Last updated: October 10, 2025 Reading time: 15 minutes